Mahale Mountains National Park,
set deep in the heart of the African interior, inaccessible by road,
but reachable by boat, traveling through the
clear
waters of the world’s longest, second-deepest and least-polluted
freshwater lake, Lake Tanganyika, home to an estimated 1,000 fish
species.
The Mahale National Park, 1,613 sq km (623 sq miles) in area, is
only 100km (60 miles) south
of where Stanley uttered that immortal greeting “Doctor Livingstone, I
presume”.
Mahale Mountains are home to some of Africa’s last remaining wild
chimpanzees, roughly 800, habituated to human visitors by a Japanese
research project founded in the 1960s.
Tracking the chimps of Mahale is a magical experience. The guide's
eyes pick out last night's nests - shadowy clumps high in a gallery of
trees crowding the sky. Scraps of half-eaten fruit and fresh dung
become valuable clues, leading deeper into the forest. Butterflies
flit in the dappled sunlight.
The area is also known as Nkungwe, after the park's largest mountain,
held sacred by the local Tongwe people, and at 2,460 metres (8,069 ft)
the highest of the six prominent points that make up the Mahale Range.
And while chimpanzees are the star attraction, the slopes support a
diverse
forest
fauna, including readily observed troops of red colobus, red-tailed
and blue monkeys, and a kaleidoscopic array of colorful forest birds.
You can trace the Tongwe people's ancient pilgrimage to the mountain
spirits, hiking through the montane rainforest belt – home to an
endemic race of Angola colobus monkey - to high grassy ridges
chequered
with alpine bamboo.
It's best to visit Mahale Mountains National Park during the dry
season (May-October), or even in the light rains of
October/November. Strict rules are in place to safeguard you and the
chimps. Allow at least 2 days to see them - this is not a zoo so there
are no guarantees where they'll be each day.